Malta’s Designers Discuss Representation Of Local Heritage In Fashion
The fourth and final theme for this year’s designMT was fashion, celebrated as a language of culture. This theme brought together some of Malta’s leading designers and creatives to discuss how local traditions inspire their work.
The event, moderated by Penny Apap Brown from Chamber of Fashion Malta, featured a panel including Ron van Maarschalkerweerd Borg (C&R), Gabriella Lukacs (GABE), Amanda Abela (MCAST), Keith J Caruana (Captain’s Cut), and Jean-Claude Farrugia (Fashion Designer).
Penny opened the session by describing fashion as a living canvas- a way to express identity and heritage. She asked the panelists to identify a single item of clothing that could represent Malta, similar to how saris evoke India or kimonos evoke Japan. Gabriella Lukacs immediately pointed to traditional bobbin lace, while Keith J Caruana highlighted items such as the “terħa” (sash) worn in the fields or by noblemen and a sock-like beret once worn by men.
Ron noted that coming from outside the culture allowed him to appreciate Malta’s visual heritage, explaining that incorporating elements like balconies into designs sometimes met mixed reactions but often resulted in something beautiful.
The discussion touched on the importance of research and historical understanding. Keith spoke about learning from older generations about materials like rabbit skin and fur, while Jean-Claude emphasised that inspiration should be balanced with a broader European and international aesthetic. Panelists also shared their experiences collaborating with local artisans.
Ron praised events like designMT for encouraging partnerships that push craft boundaries, while Gabriella noted the challenges of working with lace makers due to limited knowledge of techniques.
Amanda Abela highlighted MCAST’s commitment to fostering collaborations between designers and local craftspeople. Audience member Tamara Burr of Azzopardi Studio added that cultural elements in design should be approached through careful research, asking whether designers aim to preserve, revamp, or reinterpret culture. Ron and Amanda agreed that the goal is to “interact with” culture, creating unique interpretations that also align with brand identity.
Keith shared examples from his own work, from a darker-themed collection to a beachwear line incorporating Gozo lace by Alda Bugeja.
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Krystle Penza of Mvintage, a pioneer in incorporating Maltese culture into fashion, confirmed her commitment to embedding local heritage in her designs, noting the pride of seeing her creations worn internationally. Gabriella expressed her affection for local feasts, while Jean-Claude and Keith discussed differing approaches to incorporating religious or village-inspired motifs.
The panel also addressed the influence of social media and digital tools on young designers. Amanda noted that while platforms like Pinterest can serve as a starting point, students at MCAST are encouraged to immerse themselves in nature and culture to develop authentic creative identities.
Kristina Austi, a Norway-based textile artist, asked about AI’s role in design. Panelists agreed that while AI can streamline administrative tasks, it cannot replace human creativity. Amanda added that the brands likely to thrive will continue engaging personally with their audiences.
Throughout the discussion, interactions extended to Malta’s IP Office, which offered support for protecting fashion creations, and participants reflected on experiences at recent events like the designMT Fashion Jam. Marco Parascandalo also highlighted client interest in expanding into jewellery collections.
The event was co-funded by the European Crafts Alliance and the European Union, celebrating the intersection of fashion, culture, and collaboration in Malta’s creative landscape.
What do you make of the designers’ comments?
Credit: designMT
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