This Bar By The Valletta Coast Is A Sanctuary For Artists
Tucked down below Valletta’s Fort St. Elmo rests a hidden sanctuary for Malta’s artists. It’s not the crystal-clear cove of St Elmo’s Bay itself, but rather, the small beach bar perched on the fishermen’s wharf, Maori.
You many know it from the cat mural that faces Valletta, luring in curious onlookers from the promenade above. However, Maori’s appearance is in a constant state of flux, with its other three walls changing forms like a cuttlefish, hiding from predators.
Where once stretched a massive one eyed-Medusa on a backdrop of deep ocean blue, now sits a white and brown depiction of the bar’s namesake – the shipwrecked HMS Maori warship, as well as a seahorse… and a deep-sea diving gecko.
Like the Buddhist tradition of the sand mandalas, Maori’s artists take deep pride in the journey of creation. They embrace their work once completed, and simply reuse the bar’s walls as a fresh canvas, serving as a somewhat profound reminder that life is change.
Those who venture down are pleasantly surprised to learn that Maori’s funky facades are merely a taste of what lies within. Paintings by various Maltese artists are casually exhibited all over the bar, where poets, writers, musicians and all-around art enthusiasts drink, dance, and trade inspiration “from around sunset, ‘til whenever.”
Maori’s owner, Simone Falzon, is a Gertrude Stein character of sorts, who occasionally dabbles in various art forms herself, but has found her true calling providing a sanctuary for Malta’s largely overlooked artist community.
“Maori isn’t just a bar, or a business – it’s me.” Simone says, glancing affectionately at her beautifully quirky brick-and-mortar reflection. “It’s a way of living.”
And she means it.
Simone doesn’t ask artists for commissions on any paintings displayed or sold at Maori. Compensation is entirely discretionary. Anyone who’s had the pleasure of meeting her might assume as much, given her generous nature, and her open appreciation for just how difficult it is to pursue the life of an artist in Malta – or anywhere in the digital age for that matter.
“What are we each really living for?” Simone explains. “You have to bring out your creativity, it’s important. It’s important that we all have something to look forward to – to enjoy.” Simone explains. “If you have dreams, then you have to accomplish them.”
Many local artists repay her by helping maintain Maori, either by physically contributing labour, artwork, and events for her to host, or by contributing philosophically, through the simple honouring, and adding to, the space’s open-minded ethos.
One such philosophical flag bearer was a bit of a surprising contrast to others who roamed through Maori this Saturday afternoon – an on-duty Police officer (who’s name we’ll withhold as he was likely enjoying a nice, rebellious coffee break).
“It relaxes me, down here.” Our officer friend said. “And I fear for Malta’s arts and culture scene. It’s disappearing.”
There was a brief, amusing silence while all basked in the juxtaposition. “I used to paint,” the officer admitted with a dash of nostalgia. Though most of Maori’s crowds are artists, you don’t necessarily need to create in order to feel welcomed – you just need to appreciate.
“We get lots of different people in here,” Simone laughed, “I’ve had politicians come in that have left as singers…”
“I think that being surrounded by nature here brings out the freedom within all of us.”
Simone gestured towards the St Elmo’s Bay where scuba divers were exploring Maori’s namesake– the HMS Maori, shipwrecked in 1942 – just a stone’s throw away.
“Down here, people are just free.”
It’s hard to argue with that, Simone. May your Maori forever stay afloat!
Got an idea for the next Maori mural? Tell us in the comments below or on Facebook.
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