FIRST LOOK: Inside Luke Azzopardi’s Ethereal ‘Nocturnal Artefacts’ Collection
Luke Azzopardi recently debuted his ninth collection, Nocturnal Artefacts, at London Fashion Week with support from the Arts Council Malta, Camilleri Paris Mode and Malta Airport Foundation and the designs are an ethereal nod to architectural structures of the past and bodily castings (most notably the Nibbia Chapel in Valletta, also know as the Lost Chapel of Bones).
We got the inside look at the new designs with Luke Azzopardi himself, as well an insight into the ideologies behind the collection.
Azzopardi explains that “the garments themselves are not forms of bodily decoration or adornment, they are more like second skins that work like armour” and if you take a look at just a few of the looks you’ll understand exactly what he means.
Photo credits: Simonas Berukstis
After breaking his hand and spending a significant time in a cast, Azzopardi was inspired by a visual research project into external supporting structures (both in the human body and in gothic architecture).
“When you look at gothic architecture, it’s all about outer shells and external structures, such as flying buttresses and rib vaulting, which are created in order to produce permanent structures by using the least amount of material possible. So that got me thinking about how this could be transferred into fashion,” says Azzopardi.
Azzopardi was also inspired by the Nibbia Chapel, otherwise known as the ‘The Lost Chapel of Bones’, in his native, Malta.
“Together with Philip Sultana, we created prints inspired by the chapel’s decorative plan using surviving images of it,” the Gozitan designer explains of how the patterns were transferred from structure to fabric.
Photo credit: Simon Schmidt
The couture collection is made up of 20 pieces. Key pieces include a sheer, floor length corseted gown, hand-embellished with iridescent sequins and a leather corseted dress with 3D statement front skirt, emblazoned with Azzopardi’s own name. The designer’s X-rays can be seen printed on to fabric, including that of a long-line tailored jacket, complete with voluminous underskirt. Feminine fabrics such as tulle, velvet and silk, alongside embellishments such as sequins and feathers, juxtapose a moody colour palette of deep purple, dark teal, mustard and monochrome.
Corsetry and boning are brought to the outside of most garments, creating airy and lightweight structures which offer more support when placed on the exterior of the clothing. 3D printed and laser-cut elements were produced and assembled with mechanical precision and can also be seen throughout the fabulous collection.
Original sketch of Azzopardi's design, detailing chantilly lace.
The models also carried luxury bags made sustainably from leather by-product; Azzopardi’s first venture into the world of accessories.
Whilst bodily, head and face pieces were made in collaboration with Kane Cali and Bloc Collective who played with the idea of exoskeletons, outer casings and armour.
The styling of the collection was heavily inspired by Azzopardi’s keen interest in art history, with Pre-Raphaelite photographs and paintings feeding the entire styling, hair & makeup team in the creation of the medieval-esque and Neo-gothic looks.